A Display Panel for my CO2 Laser

I made a nice water pump system and it seemed  wrong to use panel lights  with it. So I went VFD…


Fairly Simple design but I did add screw mounts for the display itself and a form fitting pocket…

I even added an RGB  led indicator

Not a bad fit..

The hard part was cutting the panel. I was going to use the plasma cutter but I opted for an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel. I figured there would be less warping of the thin plate.

Luckily the whole control panel drops out….


Guess I need more water….



Secondary power supply for the K40

I’ve added so many features to my laser and they’re all powered by a salvaged PC power supply. Even have 5V & 12V jacks on the back to run the water pump and trigger a remote squirrel cage vent fan at the far end of my shop.

Made a quick template of the mounting holes

Drilling the base was a little nerve racking with most of the guts still in place.


Loose Power Plugs on my K40 plus Lights & Air Assist Nozzle

I noticed the manufacturer tried to hot glue the mains jacks in place. Really shoddy. So I 3D printed a locking frame…

Since I only needed one power outlet I swapped the other for an RJ45 Jack.

Went simple on the air assist nozzle.



Added a couple of aftermarket auto courtesy lamps to help see whats going on in there…

This things turning into a real frankensteins monster….

More CO2 Laser Water Pump Features

So far the new water pump has been working great. I decided to add a water level cutoff switch.

I used a two step switch so I would get a warning before the laser gets disabled.

I wanted to mount it to the lid so I 3D printed a stalk to hold it at the right height

With the extra wires I was going to need a bigger junction box but instead I just 3D printed a bubble top form the existing box.

First I thought about an aviation style connector…

Then Im settled on an RJ45 so I could use a common network jumper cable

I used half a coupler.

Just crimped on some pins to get it connected.

It fit pretty well since the coupler has a slight taper. A little glue will make it permanent

And a matching end for the controller.

Plus a few extra parts……